Long before the city streets of Kolkata were illuminated with massive, creative pandals, the festival was celebrated in the grand mansions of Bengal’s aristocratic families, known as the Bonedi Bari pujas. These old, influential families, many of whom trace their roots back to the zamindars (landowners) of Bengal, still uphold the age-old traditions of Durga Puja. Unlike the commercialized pujas in the city, these are intimate, deeply spiritual affairs where centuries-old rituals are followed with precision and reverence.
In the Bonedi Bari pujas, you can still find the ancient idols, dressed in simple yet beautiful clothes, reflecting the goddess’s timeless grace. Some of these famous pujas include the Sovabazar Rajbari Puja, which dates back to 1757, when Raja Nabakrishna Deb first organized the festival to celebrate Lord Clive’s victory in the Battle of Plassey. The Sovabazar Puja is known for its grandeur, yet it retains a certain old-world charm, where the focus is still on devotion rather than spectacle.
Then there’s the Rani Rashmoni Bari Puja, famous for its strict adherence to tradition. Founded by Rani Rashmoni, the powerful and devout woman behind the construction of the Dakshineswar Kali Temple, this puja is a reminder of how deeply Durga worship is intertwined with Kolkata’s history and spirituality.
Another renowned Bonedi Bari celebration is the Laha Bari Puja. The Laha family, known for their contributions to the city's educational and cultural life, has been hosting their traditional puja for over 200 years. Unlike the public pandals, where artistic expression takes center stage, here the rituals and customs are meticulously preserved, passed down through generations.
These pujas represent a part of Kolkata that is often overshadowed by the larger-than-life pandals, but they offer a glimpse into the heritage of the festival—an homage to the past, where the goddess is worshipped with a quiet reverence, in the heart of family homes.
As you scroll through the photos below, imagine the scenes I’ve described—the ancestral homes, the rituals that haven’t changed in centuries, and the deep connection between the people of Kolkata and Maa Durga. This is the real soul of Durga Puja, beyond the spectacle, where tradition and devotion meet.
As the festival draws to a close, and we prepare to say goodbye to Maa Durga for another year, there’s a heaviness in the air. We watch her idol being carried away, the sound of conch shells and dhak slowly fading. Yet, even as we wave farewell, there’s a lump in our throats, a feeling that something’s missing. She comes into our lives, fills us with joy, strength, and hope, and just like that, she leaves—taking with her a piece of our hearts. We stand there, trying to hold onto the final moments, knowing the city will feel empty without her presence.
We don’t want you to go, Maa. There’s still so much left unsaid, so much love to give. We know you’ll be back, but the goodbye always feels too soon. The lights will dim, the dhaks will fall silent, and the pandals will be dismantled, but your memory will linger in our hearts. And so, we whisper one last plea as we watch you leave:
Abhi na jaao chod kar, ke dil abhi bhara nahi...
❤
